JCCT Edition · Vol. 2ENCYCLOPAEDIA ECHINOIDEA

The Uni Encyclopedia

Inside the spines, the sweetness of the sea.

Sea urchins on the rocks

uni /oo·nee/noun · from Japanese 雲丹

  1. A round sea creature with a spiny shell; a relative of starfish and sea cucumbers (echinoderms).
  2. Its gonads: a rich, sweet, savory delicacy eaten as sushi, sashimi or over rice.

This volume deals mainly with ②. Picking up ① with bare hands is not recommended.

1The name

In Japanese, uni is written 海胆 (“sea gall”), 海栗 (“sea chestnut”, for its burr-like look) or 雲丹, the last used mostly for uni as food. In English it's a sea urchin, literally a “sea hedgehog”, and these days chefs worldwide simply call the delicacy “uni”.

2Which part do we eat?

SpinesTest (shell)Gonads (the part we eat)Mouth (Aristotle's lantern)
A cracked urchin seen from above

The orange or yellow part we eat is the gonad: testes in males, ovaries in females. Urchins are built in five symmetrical parts, like a star, so there are five gonads arranged in a star when you crack one open.

Color varies with species and diet: pale yellow roe is called “white” and deep orange “red” in the trade. Males and females taste much the same, and both are eaten.

3Why is it so delicious?

Uni's flavor comes from a blend of taste compounds. Research shows savory glutamic acid combined with sweet amino acids such as glycine and alanine, while slightly bitter ones such as arginine add depth.

SavoryGlutamic acid
SweetGlycine, alanine
Hint of bitterArginine, etc.
RichnessFats

Add the rich fat and silky, melting texture, and you have the balance of sweet, savory, a touch of bitter and richness that makes uni taste like uni.

Because urchins eat seaweed, the quality of their diet is said to shape the flavor. Processing matters too: alum, used to keep the shape, can add bitterness, while alum-free uni kept in salt water tastes purely of itself.

4Why Japan loves uni

In Japan, salted uni from Echizen (Fukui) has been counted among the country's three great delicacies since the Edo period, alongside karasumi (dried mullet roe) from Nagasaki and konowata (salted sea cucumber guts) from Mikawa.

Uni gunkan-maki
Uni gunkan-makiPhoto: note thanun / Unsplash
Uni and salmon roe in a masu box
Uni and salmon roe in a masu boxPhoto: Iris Yan / Unsplash

Sushi was another turning point. To serve soft uni as sushi, the gunkan-maki, rice wrapped in a band of nori, is said to have been invented at a Ginza sushi bar in 1941. Later, imports and freezing technology brought uni to conveyor-belt sushi.

Today Japan is said to eat about 90% of the world's uni. Global catch is about 64,000 tonnes a year (2022), roughly half of it from Chile, and much of it heads to Japan, the world's biggest uni fan.

5Uni around the world

Italy

Spaghetti ai ricci

In Puglia and Sicily, uni tossed through pasta, spaghetti ai ricci, is a local classic.

France

Raw from the shell

In Provence, urchins are cracked open in winter and eaten raw with bread and white wine.

Chile

The world's top producer

Chile catches about half the world's urchins and enjoys them with lemon and herb sauces.

Korea

Uni seaweed soup

On Jeju and elsewhere, seonggye-miyeokguk, uni and seaweed soup, is a favorite.

United States

Santa Barbara uni

Uni from Santa Barbara, California is a favorite in sushi bars and restaurants.

New Zealand

Kina

The Māori have long eaten urchins, which they call kina.

6Why the world loves it

!A taste like nothing else

Sweet, savory and rich in a single bite, unlike any other food.

!Limited supply

Each urchin yields only a little, and seasons are short, so it feels special.

!The rise of Japanese food

As sushi spread, so did the word “uni” and a taste for it.

!The taste of the sea

Its briny aroma and sweetness feel like tasting the sea itself.

7How urchins live

Sea urchin underwater
Sea urchin underwaterPhoto: NOAA / Unsplash

Urchins walk slowly over the seabed on tiny tube feet. The mouth sits underneath, with a five-toothed jaw called Aristotle's lantern that scrapes seaweed off rocks. The name comes from the Greek philosopher Aristotle, who compared its shape to a lantern.

8Tasmanian uni

Bay of Fires, east coast
Bay of Fires, east coastPhoto: Autumn Afar / Unsplash

Our Tasmanian uni is gathered by hand by divers in cold water at 40-odd degrees south. Harvesting urchins that have multiplied on the current also helps protect the kelp forests.

Go to Tasmanian uni →

9Fun facts

?Why “sea chestnut”

Its spiny look resembles a chestnut in its burr.

?Gunkan-maki was made for uni

Said to have been invented in 1941 so soft uni could be served as sushi.

?Salt-water uni

Uni kept in salt water without alum stays free of bitterness.

?A five-toothed mouth

Aristotle's lantern scrapes seaweed from rocks.

10The Uni Quiz

Read this far and you're nearly an uni expert.

  1. Q1Which part of the urchin do we eat?

  2. Q2How many gonads does one urchin have?

  3. Q3What is the urchin's jaw called?

  4. Q4Roughly what share of the world's uni is Japan said to eat?

11See also

Edited and published by JCCT Trade Co., Ltd., the leading company in engawa
Photos: Unsplash (Unsplash License).